North Western Peninsula

Today is July 7, day # 32 of our trip. Since our last blog update, we went all the way up the North Western Peninsula and almost back. Presently we are in Woody Point at Bonne Bay and are just 20km shy of 2000km. At one time after leaving St. Anthony we tried for about one hour to hitch a ride but no luck. With all the gear we need a pick-up truck to take it all and in that hour 3 trucks passed by without stopping. Looking back we are glad not to have gotten a ride, the weather improved and the biking has been great. Driving the same route from the opposite direction makes it look different and you see things you missed the first time.


We camped one night at the community River of Ponds. Lucy and I were there exactly 40 years ago and highway 430 was a gravel road at that time. The campground was a provincial park at that time but has been in private hands since 1997. I had to find the spot where I caught my one and only Atlantic salmon and I am pretty sure I did.

 We took a little side trip to St. Barbe and the terminal of the ferry that goes to Blanc Sablon. We were at the other side 6 years ago during our Labrador bike trip. This kinds of completes the big loop for Bob and me.









After River of Ponds the Long Range Mountains go out of sight and the road hugs the coast most of the time. There are lots of small communities on the way and past Eddies Cove the road turns east to cut across the peninsula direction St. Anthony and the east coast. One night we camped wild about 20km past the Eddies Cove alongside a salmon river. I was laying down in my tent after a hard day's work and heard a vehicle stop and back up. A lot of hollering started and I had to assume that it was directed towards me. Reluctantly I opened my tent and saw two fishermen and their truck full of fishing gear and they had just seen a coyote at the other side of the road and told me that it may be heading for my tent. I thanked them for the warning and would keep an eye on him. After that I went to sleep and never noticed a thing. Yes, what was I supposed to do? Pack up my stuff and move a ways down the road?

We paid a visit to the L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site. It is right at the end of highway 436 and is as far north as one can go in Newfoundland.  I quote: "Discovered in 1960, this is the first authenticated Norse site found in North America and could be Leif Ericsson's short lived Vinland camp. Some time about AD 1000 Norse seafarers established a base here from where they explored southwards. The traces of bog iron found - the first known example of iron smelting in the new world - in conjunction with evidence of carpentry suggest that boat repair was an important activity".
Above is one of the buildings that was recreated by Parks Canada from evidence found at the site.

Here is an example of what was left of the camp when it was discovered in 1960.















This is the actual community of L'Anse aux Meadows at the end of highway 436.

 I was wondering about all the wood piles I saw at the side of the road. One of the guides at L'Anse aux Meadows gave me the answer. Local residents can buy a licence for $25 and get assigned a lot where they can cut fire wood for their own use. They cut this in the winter and bring it to the road side using a sleigh pulled by snow mobile.

 There are quite a few gardens at the side of the highway. During construction of the highway the top soil was moved to the side and is now made to good use by the locals.

 We visited St. Anthony and biked right to the end of highway 430 where I took this picture using the selftimer. The spot where I am standing is called Iceberg Alley but unfortunately it was totally fogged in the morning I was there.

 We visited the house of Dr. Wilfred Thomason Grenfell who during his lifetime greatly improved healthcare and with that living conditions for the people living on the Labrador coast and Northern Newfoundland. This got my interest because during the 4 years we lived in Churchill Falls, Labrador, health services were provided by the Grenfell Association.

  When camping at the Three Falls RV Site and campground, about 10km outside St. Anthony, we were at the tent part of the park all by our little selves. While preparing a simple meal I heard some movement behind me. When turning I was looking straight at a young bull moose. I am sure that he knew that I was there but totally ignored me and just grazed away. 

Later he moved to the road and walked right in front of our tent site, totally ignoring me. This was the closest encounter with a bull moose I ever had. Glad that this is not rutting season.

 The weather was much better going back. Salmon season was in full swing. This shot is from the Torrent River. Look at all those fly fishermen trying to hook a salmon. I would have loved to be standing there myself.

 On July 6 I met fellow bikers Rob, Sarah and daughter Cedar from Portland, Maine. They have been on the road since early May and on their travels also were in Cole Harbour and on the Salt Marsh Trail. They are on their way to St. Barbe to take the ferry to Labrador and from there take the Nordic Express (well known to me) to Rimouski and then on the Quebec City where they will meet up with family. They maintain a website at: WWW.CRAZYGUYONABIKE.COM/DOC/BIKETRIP2012

On July 6 we arrived back in Rocky Harbour and decided to change our route a little. Instead of following the  430 all the way, we biked from Rocky Harbour to Norris Point, having to climb a hill of 150m starting at sea level. It was worth it, the view of Bonne Bay and the communities was breath taking. From there we took a water taxi to Woody Point, had to unhook Bob and take all the gear off my bike to get it on the boat. Once at the other side I was getting pretty tired and promised myself that if I would run into a motel at the other side, I would go for it. And about 1km from the terminal I found the Woody Point Motel, complete with a restaurant were they specialize in fresh seafood. Had a great meal of pan fried cod  last night.
When I woke up this morning it was raining and decided to make this a rest day. No WIFI at the motel. I am  now in the Granite Coffee House downtown Woody Point updating the blog. It has a laundromat attached to it and now we have all kinds of clean gear again.
Tomorrow we continue on highway 431 until it meets up with the 430 and then on to Deer Lake and the TCH. Life is good!